Puddings are a reward for patience and good behaviour - perhaps it's time to be naughty.

THEY say we shouldn't view sweet things as treats or rewards for good behaviour, but really, it's a bit late now. Generations have been bribed out of childish tantrums with promises of sweets, kept alive on long car trips with occasional ice-creams, and forced to eat our greens under the direst threat of all - no pud. And I'm talking about grown-ups. It was even worse when we were kids.

So - my theory goes - if a pudding is a reward for good behaviour, then it had better be worth it, because it's not that easy being good. It will also be a rare enough treat, for the same reason, which makes it easier to rationalise the butter, sugar and chocolate involved.

The best puds, funnily enough, aren't blindingly sweet. Real butter must be involved, good eggs, freshly toasted nuts and sweet, warming spices. If they have something contradictory about them, such as the bitterness of really good dark chocolate, or the sourness of lemon, even better.

If they don't, then it can be added later, in the form of a sour cream, creme fraiche, yoghurt or tart fruit sorbet to act as contrast. They should be gently comforting, like a rug over the knees, yet at the same time stimulating, like playing Scrabble with a new friend.

Most of the puddings I make are based on either chocolate or fruit, because everyone knows that real, dark, bittersweet chocolate is good for you; and fruit is fruit, after all. I know deep in my heart that lemons, especially, have a chemical quality that simply cancels out any kilojoules with which they are teamed.

The best puds are those you know well: the fruit crumbles, gooey baked chocolate puddings, creamy rice puddings, steamed sponges, crusty apple pies and rich custards that have been there for you, through thick and thin. But every now and then the pudding world is shaken with the introduction of something new and wonderful, like the soft-hearted chocolate moeulleux with its oozing centre of chocolate lava created by New York chef Jean-Georges Vongrichten in the late '80s.

As much as I love the traditional puds we have inherited, I find it extremely comforting to know that people are still coming up with great new puddings in our lifetime.

Peek-a-boo pear pudding

This is one way to get everyone to eat their fruit - serve poached pears up to their hips in gorgeous cakey sponge pudding.

INGREDIENTS
4 firm, ripe pears
100g sugar
600ml water
2 cinnamon sticks
150g butter
150g sugar
2 eggs
125g self raising flour, sifted
1 tsp baking powder
50ml milk

METHOD

* To poach the pears, bring the sugar, water and cinnamon to the boil as you peel the pears. Add the pears, lower the heat and simmer gently until tender when pierced with a skewer, around 10 minutes. Set aside to cool.

* Heat the oven to 180C. Lightly butter a one-litre baking dish. Beat the butter and sugar until pale. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well. Add half the flour, folding lightly, then half the milk, then remaining flour, then milk until you have a smooth batter that drops easily from a spoon.

* Spoon into the baking dish. Drain the pears, and trim the bases flat. Push them firmly into the batter and bake for 40 minutes, or until the pudding is golden brown and set in the middle. Leave for 10 minutes before serving with good cream.

Serves 4

Soft-hearted chocolate puddings

When pierced with a spoon, the inside should spill out in a wave of molten chocolate lava. It's all in the timing, so keep an eye on these little puds for the last minute or two of cooking, and be brave when turning them out.

INGREDIENTS
125g butter, plus 2 tsp extra
150g bittersweet dark chocolate, chopped
2 eggs, plus 2 egg yolks
125g sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
35g plain flour, sifted

METHOD

* Heat oven to 170C. Use 2 tsp butter to grease four 150ml heatproof souffle moulds, or ramekins, and place on a baking tray.

* Melt the butter and chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pot of gently simmering water. Using an electric beater, beat the eggs, yolks, sugar and vanilla for a minute or two until pale. Fold in the flour, then fold in the chocolate mixture. Pour into the moulds to fill by three-quarters.

* Bake for 10-12 minutes until risen, when the cake is set but the centre still moves a little when jiggled. Remove from the oven and from the tray.

* Run a palette knife around each pudding, gently invert on to warm plates and serve immediately.

Serves 4

Tip: You can prepare these ahead and refrigerate the moulds for two or three hours. If baking from cold, add another minute or two to the cooking time.

Rice pudding with honey and lemon

A simple, homely pud made with milk, honey and lemon that nevertheless tastes remarkably rich and creamy.

INGREDIENTS
150g arborio rice
pinch of salt
750ml milk
1 tbsp grated lemon zest
1 tsp vanilla extract
3 tbsp honey, or more to taste

To serve
2 tbsp honey
1 tbsp lemon zest (done with zester, in long strips)
1 lemon, cut into wedges

METHOD

* Combine the rice, salt, milk, zest and vanilla in a heavy-bottomed saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring constantly to prevent the rice sticking.

* Reduce the heat to very low and simmer gently for 15-20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the rice is plump and tender, but still slightly runny.

* Add the honey, stirring well.

* Spoon into four small bowls or ramekins, drizzle with remaining honey and top with strips of lemon zest. Serve with a lemon wedge for squeezing.

Serves 4